17 September (London, England) – The Sustainable Eel Group (SEG) is pleased to announce the publication of ‘The past, present, and future of eels on our plates’, a feature in Foodism that highlights the rich history of eel in European cuisine while addressing the urgent need for sustainable practices in the eel processing sector. The article serves up a miscellany of eel dishes, from East London’s famous jellied eels to smoked eel jellied eggs. Likewise, it explores how chefs are breathing new life into this iconic food with a fresh focus on sustainability.
For centuries, eel was a cornerstone of British working-class culture, particularly in the industrial East End of London, where jellied eels and an eel-based parsley liquor were often enjoyed alongside pie and mash. Today, however, Anguilla anguilla faces a precarious future, with populations declining by 95% since the 1970s. The collapse in the stock prompted backlash against fishermen in the first instance and calls for a wholesale ban on eel fishing. More recently, it has seen fishermen, foodies, and conservation communities come together to oppose unsustainable barrier construction, habitat destruction, and the still-sizeable illegal trade to ensure that this once-abundant species can be enjoyed for generations to come.
SEG welcomes this renewed interest in eel’s gastronomic roots, but emphasises the need for sustainable sourcing as a key part of the solution. With consumer awareness of environmental issues growing, the group is calling on both consumers and the food industry to support eel suppliers and fisheries that meet the SEG Standard’s fixed definition of responsible fishing.
The SEG Standard sets crucial sustainability guidelines to ensure that eel fishing is conducted in a way that not only protects the species but also allows for its recovery. By purchasing certified products, consumers can enjoy eel dishes confident in the understanding that all parts of the supply chain, from the glass eel fishery to the aquaculture facility, the smokehouse to the supermarket, adhere to best practice specifications. The certification is a vital part of restoring consumer trust and ensuring that eating eel is both ethical and sustainable.
The Foodism feature shines a spotlight on specific chefs and restaurants that are embracing sustainability while still honouring tradition. It showcases how a changing industry is putting a creative spin on classic dishes, reimagining eel in ways that appeal to contemporary palates while remaining committed to ethical sourcing. These chefs are not only helping to preserve an important part of Britain’s culinary heritage but also helping to revive the public’s appreciation for eel, aligning their menus with the growing demand for sustainable food.
As the article emphasises, sustainable eel fisheries play a vital role in this effort. By operating under the European Union’s Eel Regulation (1100/2007) and the SEG Standard, these fisheries are not only ensuring that their methods support eel stock recovery, but they are also contributing to a broader movement to rebuild eel habitats, combat the smuggling gangs trading glass eels with East Asia, and remove barriers to migratory behaviours.
‘The Foodism feature comes at a critical time in the history of freshwater fisheries policy’, says Andrew Kerr, founder and chairman of the Sustainable Eel Group. ‘It’s exciting to see eel reappearing on the menus of forward-thinking chefs who are committed to sustainable sourcing. Our mission is to protect the European eel for future generations, and the collaboration between fisheries, chefs, and consumers is essential in achieving this goal’.
SEG continues to work with conservationists, scientists, and industry leaders to restore eel habitats, improve migration pathways, and ensure that eel stocks are managed responsibly. By choosing eel products from fisheries certified under the SEG Standard, consumers can play a direct role in safeguarding this endangered species while enjoying one of Britain’s most iconic and historic foods.
To read the full Foodism article and learn more about the Sustainable Eel Group’s mission, click here.